In the spring of 2024, Michelle, our Product Manager for Asia, embarked on a journey to Northern Thailand. One of the standout experiences on her tour was the Mae Hong Son Loop, leaving a deep impression on her. Discover Michelle’s adventures here.
From the moment I first stood face-to-face with Northern Thailand, I fell in love. I knew I would return one day. I wanted to experience more, explore more. I yearned for more of the magnificent north, rich with breathtaking nature, cultural encounters, and authentic experiences. In April 2024, that chance came my way.
From my favourite city, Chiang Mai, I set out on the Mae Hong Son Loop. This loop stretches 660 km through Northern Thailand’s picturesque mountain landscapes, with 1,864 hairpin turns leading you through hidden valleys, lush forests, and small villages with unrivalled views.
I aimed for the charming little town of Mae Sariang. On the way, I stopped at the majestic Mae Ya Waterfall, one of the most beautiful in Northern Thailand. I’ve seen my share of waterfalls, but Mae Ya was particularly striking. It cascades over multiple levels, with water falling a full 250 metres down the wide rock walls, creating numerous small pools – truly fascinating!
I also visited Ob Luang National Park, known for its dramatic landscapes. Here, I encountered a narrow, steep gorge where the Mae Chaem River cuts through the park’s towering rock walls. The gorge is also called ‘The Kissing Cliff’, as it resembles two faces about to kiss.
Upon arriving in Mae Sariang, it was nearly dark. I found a nice restaurant not far from my hotel where I ordered grilled fish and papaya salad – one of my go-to choices when in Thailand. Afterwards, I took a stroll through the town and found a cosy little bar where I enjoyed a cold Chang.
The next morning, I rose early to see the town in daylight. It was utterly magical wandering through the streets as the town was waking up and the sun was slowly rising. The locals were opening their small shops while others were heading to work on their scooters, making the town’s small, colourful lanterns sway gently.
Leaving Mae Sariang, I continued on my journey to Mae Hong Son. I drove along winding roads to the small village of Ban Huay Hom, surrounded by mountains and lush nature. The village is home to the Karen tribe, and upon arrival, I was greeted by a local Karen family living in a large, traditional wooden house. The family sustains themselves through agriculture and traditional weaving, and they even run a homely café.
The village is part of the Mae La Noi Royal Project, established by Thailand’s former king and queen. As I enjoyed their home-brewed coffee, the family enlightened me about the project’s aim to combat opium cultivation and improve local living standards through sustainable farming. They shared how the project has transformed their lives, transitioning from opium farming to sheep rearing and cultivating alternative crops like coffee and rice.
Next, I had the chance to try my hand at traditional weaving in their workshop, experiencing the creative process of crafting carpets and garments.
Finally, they gave me a tour of their large property, where sheep grazed peacefully, and coffee plants and rice terraces stood proudly. It was inspiring to see how the project has not only changed their source of income but also contributed to a sustainable future for the entire area.
I then drove on to the Pai River, where I was set to travel by traditional motorboat to Huay Pu Keng village, accessible only by boat. The boat journey along the scenic river was incredibly beautiful, and on the way, I spotted both lizards and various bird species.
Huay Pu Keng is home to the Kayan tribe, where the women are known for wearing brass rings around their necks, earning them the nickname ‘Long Neck’. As the village is not easily accessible, few other travellers venture here – I didn’t encounter any others – making it the most authentic ‘long neck village’ in the province. I took a walk up the village’s main street and struck up a conversation with one of the local women. She was the only English speaker and the only one who had ever travelled outside Thailand. I asked if I could take her portrait, to which she agreed, and upon seeing her own photograph, she remarked, “wow, so beautiful.” I couldn’t agree more. We could all learn something from such confidence.
In the late afternoon, I arrived in Mae Hong Son. In the evening, I strolled down to the town’s Walking Street, which transforms into a vibrant night market as darkness falls. Here, I meandered through the numerous food stalls, tempted by the many local specialties – an impossible choice, so I ended up sampling a bit of everything. I enjoyed the evening meal on a mat at a low table, just like the locals do. Behind me stood the Wat Chong Kham temple, beautifully reflected in the town’s still lake.
The next morning, I chose to rise early again, having heard that the sunrise over Mae Hong Son from the Wat Phra That Doi Kongmu temple is particularly breathtaking. The temple is perched on a hilltop with a spectacular panoramic view over Mae Hong Son’s misty valleys and surrounding mountains. As the sun finally began to rise, the peaceful silence enveloped me, and it was absolutely wonderful to witness the golden light filling the landscape, creating an almost magical ambiance.
With the sun shining brightly, I headed down to the town’s local morning market. Across from the market, I found a little local breakfast restaurant serving the traditional dish, Jok Moo Sap, a rice soup. Garnished generously with spices, it tasted heavenly.
Later that day, I was set to explore the charming mountain village of Ban Rak Thai, founded by Chinese immigrants, primarily soldiers from Yunnan province, who fled here after the Chinese Civil War. I wandered through tea plantations up to a hilltop offering the most beautiful views over the tea plantations, the village, and the lake, into which the surrounding mountains were mirrored. I also took a stroll along the village’s main street, where I found a shop selling tea and local snacks.
On the way back to Mae Hong Son, I visited Phu Klon, famous for its natural hot springs and mud pools. Nothing was more welcomed than a mud facial after driving so many kilometres and spending hours in a car over the past few days. I don’t know if it was something I convinced myself of, but I truly felt that my skin was “glowing” afterwards, and I felt such a sense of relaxation and renewed energy.
The following day, I left Mae Hong Son and headed towards the town of Pai. Along the way, I stopped in the village of Ban Cha Bo, home to the Lahu tribe. I had lunch at a local restaurant, its dining area extending over the mountainsides with stunning views over the surrounding mountains. On the way back to the car, I met three lovely ladies from the Lahu tribe, sewing and embroidering, and purchased a small makeup pouch from them for what equated to about 1 £.
Before reaching Pai, I made a stop at the Ta-Pai Bridge, built in 1942 by Japanese troops during World War II as part of their supply route.
Eventually, I reached Pai, a town I had looked forward to discovering. I must admit, I was slightly taken aback. There were people! Travelling in April, Thailand’s low season, I hadn’t encountered many other travellers on my journey. Yet they seemed to have all gathered here in Pai. Denim shorts, bandanas, and a hippie/boho vibe best describe Pai. Here, cosy cafés and bars with live music abound, alongside splendid eateries and little shops selling crocheted bags and jewellery.
However, one of the highlights awaited me the next day with my visit to Pai Canyon. Pai Canyon was shaped by erosion from wind and rain, creating narrow trails, steep gorges, and deep ravines. The first thing that met my eyes was the terracotta-coloured earth and the steep sandstone cliffs. I was utterly blown away by the impressive panoramic views. What a place!
My adventure in Northern Thailand concluded back in Chiang Mai, where I had time to reflect on the many experiences before heading home again.
The Mae Hong Son Loop is more than a journey – it’s an experience that encapsulates everything I adore about Thailand: magnificent nature, cultural encounters, and the sense of being far removed from everyday life.
Michelle,
TourCompass – From tourist to traveller