Travelogue from Vietnam: adventures from north to south with tiny travelers

In May 2024, Mira and Dino, two of our team members, set out on a tour of Vietnam with their three children. Catch their incredible tour to Vietnam below.

At TourCompass, it is crucial for us to have an in-depth knowledge of our destinations and experience them firsthand. By exploring each place personally, we capture the same wonderful impressions as our guests, helping us create authentic, memorable travel experiences.

As part of the TourCompass team, we’re grateful for this unique chance to blend our passion for travel with our work and take our children on unforgettable adventures. For us, travel is joy, and we’re thrilled to share it with our children. Our goal? To open up the world to them, expanding their horizons and creating lasting memories together. Along the way, we discover new cultures, vibrant traditions, and the wonderful people who make each place special.

In 2022, we explored the captivating wonders of Southern Thailand, wandering through Phuket, Khao Lak, and the stunning landscapes of Khao Sok. The next year, Sri Lanka called to us (read our travelogue here). This year, we were fortunate enough to experience the highlights of Vietnam from north to south.

The elusive magic of Hanoi

What we treasure about our journeys is primarily adventures and genuine experiences. However, we also value the comfort of knowing that we are taken care of every step of the way.

As with all our previous tours, our guide was ready to greet us at the airport with open arms.

His name was Hoi, and he introduced himself with a grin as “Hoi from Hanoi.”
After a short drive from the airport, we found ourselves in the heart of Hanoi, a city that awakens all the senses. Hanoi held an elusive magic, best described as a vibrant sense of life on every street corner.

We checked into our hotel, conveniently located within walking distance of Hanoi’s old quarter. Arriving in the afternoon and tired from the flight, we felt like diving into bed for a nap. Yet, Hanoi’s cosy streets beckoned, and it wasn’t long before we convinced ourselves to take a short evening stroll to grab some dinner and immerse ourselves in the city’s vibrant atmosphere.
Out on the streets, we quickly discovered that you rarely feel like “the coast is clear”, when crossing Hanoi’s roads.

However, we soon found our rhythm. Cars, buses, lorries, scooters (some of them with washing machines strapped to them), rickshaws, bicycles, mobile food stalls, and pedestrians moved in perfect harmony. There seemed to be no room for anyone, yet space for everyone.

After indulging in Vietnam’s eternally delicious cuisine and the local beer, it was time to head back to the hotel. With satisfied stomachs and fatigue setting in, it made perfect sense to take a Xich Lo (cycle rickshaw) back to the hotel. We were ready for a restful night’s sleep to prepare for the days of exploration ahead.

Tea, temple and calligraphy

The next morning, Hoi was waiting in the hotel lobby to take us on our first Hanoi adventure. We began in the old quarter, which was already bustling with life even though it was only 8:30.

Our first stop was a charming tea shop, where we were invited to participate in a traditional tea ceremony. We were served white tea and learned about Vietnam’s tea traditions. We also learned that in Vietnam, tea is not just consumed but is savoured with the utmost care and respect. It is considered impolite to refuse a host’s offer of tea.

Next, we were introduced to Vietnam’s rich tradition of calligraphy by a talented young calligraphy master. We had a go at some brush strokes, and the master crafted beautiful characters with our names on them for us to take home as keepsakes.

The final experience of the day was Van Mieu, also known as the Temple of Literature. Built in 1070, the temple was full of history and charm. It was impressive to see how well-preserved everything was—from the lush gardens to the traditional architecture.

The temple was well-visited, and it was wonderful to see both travellers like us and Vietnamese locals gathering around this sacred site. One of the highlights of our visit was when a group of schoolchildren approached to greet our children and attempted a small conversation with them. It was heartening to witness the local children’s curiosity and friendliness, and our children delighted in their attention.

The visit to the Temple of Literature was inspiring and educational. It offered us a deeper understanding of Hanoi’s cultural and academic legacy. The temple continues to hold significance today, and we saw many students coming to pray for good fortune in their studies and exams.

Mr. Duc, Lake B52 and culinary chaos

Our final day of exploration in Hanoi presented several remarkable experiences and acquaintances.

We began the day with a leisurely stroll around the beautiful freshwater lake, revelling in stunning panoramic views along Thanh Nien Street.

During our walk, we noticed the small details on the streets that truly gives the city its unique charm. We saw a hairdresser with his salon set up on the pavement, equipped with just a mirror and a chair. It was impressive to see how Vietnamese people often make use of such simple yet highly creative solutions.

We then made our way to the nearby B52 Lake, where we were invited to the home of Mr. Duc, a man who, as a child, witnessed a B52 plane being shot down and crashing into the lake. The plane remains in the lake today, serving as a reminder of the Vietnam War and a symbol of Vietnamese resilience.

Mr. Duc shared his poignant story with us and emphasised the importance of remembering the past, as it’s the only way to prevent history from repeating itself. His eagerness to share his story with as many people as possible was palpable.

In the evening, we had a culinary experience, joining a street food tour through the narrow alleys of the old quarter. Hoi met us at the hotel, and together we went to the local night market. Upon arrival, the market buzzed with life and offered an array of goods. We navigated the labyrinth of alleys, stopping at a pho stall to taste the world-renowned beef noodle soup. At the nearby Bia Hoi Corner, we found an open spot to enjoy a cold, local draught beer, as we watched life around us grow increasingly lively as darkness fell.

The descending dragon

It was time to say goodbye to Hanoi and continue our journey towards Ha Long Bay. The name ‘Halong’ means ‘the descending dragon’ in Vietnamese. According to legend, the bay was created when an enormous dragon descended from the mountains, its tail striking the ground and carving out the landscape, forming the numerous limestone islands and cliffs that define the bay today. This was one of the highlights of the tour that we had been eagerly anticipating.

We boarded our splendid ship, where we were greeted by the friendly crew and introduced to the plan for our tour. Twenty minutes later, we had left the harbour and were surrounded by the islands and cliffs of Ha Long Bay.

After a couple of hours, we stopped in the bay, where those who fancied it could go kayaking around the area. It was a delight for both adults and children. We had admired beautiful pictures of the bay from home, and now we found ourselves amidst it all – experiencing it firsthand.

Later in the afternoon, we visited Sung Sot Cave, one of the largest caves in Ha Long Bay. We were completely overwhelmed by its size; it was far more gigantic than we had expected when we first entered.

In the evening, we enjoyed a delicious dinner on the ship. The staff turned off the lights and, accompanied by traditional Vietnamese music, served the finest dishes. There was also the option to fish for squid by moonlight, and although we didn’t catch anything, it was a fantastic experience, surrounded by the tranquillity of the bay.

The next morning was one of the most beautiful we’ve ever witnessed. We drew back the curtains to a stunning view from our room, with the sunrise over the calm waters. After a light breakfast, we sailed to Ti Top Island, where we hiked up to get a magnificent view of the bay. Then we enjoyed a swim on the island’s beach. The beach on Ti Top is one of the few places in Ha Long Bay where swimming is possible.

It was the perfect end to our experience in Ha Long Bay, and after a few hours of sailing back to the harbour, we were en route to Hanoi. We had a brief reunion with the city before finally bidding farewell to North Vietnam and setting off for new adventures in Central Vietnam.

A unique train journey

Hoi drove us to the train station and helped us find our sleeper cabin on the night train to Danang. This also meant saying goodbye to Hoi, who had taken such great care of us during our stay so far. It felt a bit sad. Before waving goodbye, Hoi told us that we were on the train on a special evening. April 30th marked the anniversary of Vietnam’s reunification, which took place 49 years ago.

It was the day the north and south were united. Although it was a coincidence, it made our train journey even more special.

The next morning, we awoke in a completely new part of Vietnam and enjoyed the views during the last few hours of our train journey. In Danang, we were welcomed by Tuan, who would be our guide in Hoi An.

The city of lanterns

We arrived in Hoi An around lunchtime, and our guide, Tuan, had a fantastic suggestion for where to eat. We had an unforgettable lunch at Bánh Mì Phượng, where we tasted some of the most delicious baguette sandwiches, we’ve ever had. This place is well-known for its baguette sandwiches and is also a favourite among locals when they need a banh mi. The famous chef Anthony Bourdain himself had eaten here and recommended it in one of his documentaries, leading to international fame. It went from being a small sandwich shop to a popular two-storey lunch spot.

After relaxing by the hotel pool in the afternoon, evening arrived, and it was time to experience Hoi An after dark, which we had eagerly anticipated. The city is known for its beautiful lanterns, which adorned every nook with various colours, patterns, and designs. Even in daylight, they were fascinating, and we could hardly wait to see how they would light up the place after dark, bathing the entire city in a soft, gentle glow.

We were certainly not disappointed. Every street corner was magical, and we enjoyed the evening dining on local dishes under the lanterns’ glow. Afterwards, we took a stroll along the river, admiring the many boats calmly gliding across the water.

On two wheels over the water

The next day, we were up early and ready for new adventures. Tuan picked us up from the hotel, and together we rode to the headquarters to pick up bicycles. We were going on a bike tour to one of the nearby craft villages, something especially the children were looking forward to. We cycled through Hoi An, and although we were a bit nervous about venturing into Vietnamese traffic, we had already become accustomed to the rhythm. We had learned that traffic in Vietnam is like a big team game, where everyone is responsible for helping each other reach their destination. And it certainly helped that the traffic in Hoi An was somewhat more manageable than in Hanoi.

Although it was possible to reach the village by cycling over a bridge, Tuan thought it wasn’t suitable with children. Therefore, he had arranged for a boat to take us to the village. It added an extra little adventure, making the tour even more exciting.

Our bike tour in the village offered countless experiences and encounters with the local residents, who warmly welcomed us wherever we went.

One of our first stops was at an elderly couple making rice pancakes. We all got the chance to make our own rice pancake, which we eventually enjoyed with some delicious chilli dip. It was very simple and modest, but tasted heavenly.

Then, we visited a large family temple, which had been gradually expanded over many generations. Family temples are found throughout Vietnam, and ancestoral worship plays a central role in Vietnamese culture. It is believed that the spirits of the deceased continue to influence the living world, so it is important to keep them pleased by honouring them with regular ceremonies.

Before heading back to Hoi An, we also visited a couple who made mats of various sizes. These mats are used by many Vietnamese people to sleep on, as they are cooling in the intense heat. They were incredibly sweet, and the children got the opportunity to try their hand at making them.

Back in Hanoi, we explored the old town with the guide, before having the rest of the day at our leisure.

DIY and cable cars

Our last day in Hoi An was spent on an exciting excursion to the impressive Ba Na Hills.

Before we got there, we visited one of Hoi An’s lantern workshops, where we learned to make our own lanterns. It was a fun and creative start to the day that we all found delightful. The staff at the workshop were excellent guides, and after a couple of hours, each of us had created a beautiful lantern to take home. We were slightly concerned about how to fit them in our luggage, but as always, the Vietnamese had a clever solution: the lanterns could be folded down to take up hardly any space.

After about an hour and a half drive, we were at the foot of Ba Na Hills. We saw the many cable cars gliding above the lush mountains, and soon we were in one ourselves, heading towards the top.

Although we are used to cable cars from our skiing trips, this experience was something quite special. Gliding over the green forests and roaring waterfalls was enchanting, and it was incredible to see how such a spectacular construction could be built amidst the towering mountains and dense jungle growing in them.

After 20 minutes, we reached the top, and it was nothing short of breathtaking. At 1400 metres, surrounded by mountains with jungle as far as the eye could see, we found a theme park including a French village, a Japanese teahouse, and many beautiful flower gardens. There was also an amusement park where the children had a great time trying out various rides.

We had saved the best for last: the golden bridge. Although only completed in 2018, it looks as though it has always been there and has quickly become an iconic symbol of Vietnam. Even though it started to rain a bit, it was a fantastic experience. The giant hands cradling the bridge felt like they were lifting us to the heavens as we took in the magnificent views over the mountains and the rainforest.

Ho Chi Minh City

After another night in Hoi An, it was time to journey onward again.

After a short flight from Danang, we arrived in Ho Chi Minh City – a completely new part of Vietnam. Our guide Tien met us at the airport, and as it was still quite early in the day, we decided to have lunch and take a city tour before checking into the hotel.

Tien showed us around the city’s many famous landmarks, including the Reunification Palace and the stunning post office, providing us with a deeper insight into Ho Chi Minh City’s history. We also visited a museum dedicated to the victims of the Vietnam War, which was incredibly moving and thought-provoking.

We ended the day with a visit to a smuggler’s bunker from the war, one of many hidden bunkers in the city’s alleys. It was fascinating to see how they had been concealed and utilised during the war.

The rest of our time in Ho Chi Minh City was spent exploring the city, visiting the markets, and admiring the impressive architecture. Ho Chi Minh City differed from Hanoi with its wide streets and more open spaces, making it a bit easier to get around.

Mekong Delta

On our last day in Ho Chi Minh City, we embarked on an excursion to the Mekong Delta, a few hours’ drive from the city. Known as Vietnam’s ‘rice bowl’, the Mekong Delta spans over 40,500 square kilometres. The area is home to an incredibly rich wildlife and over 17 million people who rely on its resources.

We began our adventure with a boat trip into the delta on a larger vessel, where we stopped at one of the many islands in the area. Here, we enjoyed a delightful lunch with homemade Vietnamese dishes and freshly caught fish from the Mekong River. The flavours were as vibrant as the landscape around us.

After lunch, we took a stroll through the village, witnessing the daily lives of the locals. It was intriguing to see the traditional stilted houses and the small gardens where they grow their own vegetables.

Before heading back, we sailed on a smaller boat through one of the Mekong Delta’s countless narrow canals. Gliding quietly through the narrow waterways surrounded by dense vegetation was a truly unique experience. The tall palms and thick mangroves created a green tunnel, where the light beautifully reflected on the water.

It was a fantastic day, bringing us close to nature and its many wonders.

Fishing village in the desert

We concluded our Vietnam adventure in Mui Ne, which was the perfect place for us to relax and digest all the impressions we had gathered during our tour.

Although Vietnam is one country, it felt like we had visited three distinctively different countries due to the vast distances and differences between North, Central, and South Vietnam.

In Mui Ne, the whole family enjoyed the beautiful sandy beaches where we could relax and listen to the waves. The hotel’s large swimming pool was also a hit, especially when the sun was high in the sky. In the evenings, we explored the local restaurants and indulged in delicious Vietnamese dishes – the freshly caught fish and seafood were favourites.

We also took a trip to the red sand dunes that Mui Ne is famous for. It was almost like being in a mini desert, and it was fun running up and down the large dunes. We visited the fishing village, where hundreds of colourful fishing boats were anchored. It was fascinating to watch the fishermen return with the day’s catch and experience the lively atmosphere at the harbour.

Mui Ne was truly a wonderful conclusion to our tour. On our last evening, we watched local children play football on the beach as the sun set on the horizon.

Memories that stay with us forever

Our tour in Vietnam has been a captivating adventure filled with moments we’ll never forget! Along the way, we had the pleasure of meeting warm-hearted, welcoming people. Our local guides, in particular, stood out for their expertise and hospitality, making us feel at home every step of the way.

We’ve made memories to last a lifetime, and even now, back in our everyday lives, we feel changed, knowing things won’t ever be quite the same again. That’s the magic of travel: it leaves its mark on us, gives us fresh perspectives, and creates memories that stay with us forever.

/Mira & Dino

TourCompass – From tourist to traveller