Imagine standing with your feet at the water’s edge and looking out over the sea.
The water is warm and turquoise blue. A couple of local fishing boats are bobbing in the waves – they have just returned with the day’s catch – lobster, shrimp and flatfish.
On both sides of you, the white beach is deserted. Behind you is your lodge. It is the only lodge for miles around. Here, there are no busy streets, souvenir shops with bargains or music from the surrounding restaurants. All you can hear is the sound of the sea and the wind – and noise of the stakk busy in the kitchen while they prepare your lunch.
Anakao Ocean Lodge is located south of Toliara on Madagascar’s west coast. You get here by speedboat from Toliara as the trip by car along the road is far too long and bumpy.
The lodge consists of 25 bungalows, which are spread over a large area along the beach. The lodge has both standard and family bungalows. The family bungalows have two storeys with one bedroom on the top floor.
The bungalows are built of stone with thatched roofs and rosewood beams. Beautiful, warm wooden floors welcome you inside, where the walls are tastefully decorated with local art and crafts. Just enough – but not so much that it disturbs the view from the large windows. Thanks to the lodge’s beachside location, all the bungalows have a view of the beach. You can also enjoy it from your private terrace, where you will find a couple of sun loungers which are waiting to be used.
All the bungalows have a private bathroom with hot water 24 hours a day. There is also a safe, hairdryer, minibar and air conditioning. Wi-Fi is available in the communal areas.
As you can imagine, relaxation is a key priority at Anakao Ocean Lodge. Strolls along the beaches, a good book, swimming and snorkelling in the sea – and between July and September, possibly whale spotting from the beach. Meals will therefore shape the day – and you can look forward to them!
They are served in the restaurant, which is the natural gathering point in the lodge. Fish is always a feature on the menu of course, and varies depending on teh latest catch. However, there is always something for those who are not keen on fish (including vegetarians) – but it is important that we are notified of this in advance. The vast majority of the ingredients are locally sourced, and the jam at breakfast is of course homemade.
Anakao Ocean Lodge does not offer the sort of luxury which is associated with gold taps and a ‘state-of-the-art’ ‘pillow menu’. It is luxury in the sense that it is an area of untouched nature which you can enjoy undisturbed while reconnecting with your inner calm.
Please note that there is no swimming pool at Anakao Ocean Lodge.
Artisan Hotel is one of the most popular hotels in Ambositra. The restaurant, which has both indoor and outdoor seating, is a favourite stop for travellers on the RN7 highway, which runs all the way through Central and Southern Madagascar.
The many visitors to the restaurant attract various local performers, making the courtyard at the Artisan an excellent place to get acquainted with traditional Malagasy music and dance.
The 22 rooms are all furnished in traditional Malagasy style – that is very simple, with wooden floors and wooden furniture – and not much else. The hotel is nice and clean, but you should not expect much more than a bed to sleep in, good food and hopefully fine entertainment.
Vakona is a classic in the area. The lodge has its own small reserve with two different parks, where you can see chameleons, crocodiles and birds, among other things. In one park is a small island, Lemur Island, where it is possible to see lemurs. However, we do not recommend a visit to the island, as the lemurs are almost tame, and this kind of interaction with the wildlife does not live up to our animal welfare policy.
The lodge, on the other hand, is definitely worth a visit in itself. There are 28 bungalows, simply furnished with a bed with mosquito net, ceiling fan, safety box and minibar. The big draw is its location in the middle of the rainforest, and in particular the restaurant, which has a veranda built over a small lake.
A quiet morning here with a cup of coffee, the birds diving for flies on the surface of the water and perhaps with the sounds of indris calling – this is Andasibe at its best.
Mantadia is a wonderful little gem close to one of Madagascar’s most famous national parks: Andasibe-Mantadia National Park.
The lodge is built on top of a hill, so the views from the pool area are outstanding. In front of you lies the rainforest – but it is not just any rainforest. It is original rainforest from the time when all the Earth’s continental blocks were connected and formed a supercontinent.
The 23 rooms are large and decorated with respect for the surrounding nature. There are wooden floors and muted colours, and from the shower you have a view of the forest around you. The bathrooms are also stocked with environmentally friendly soap and shampoo, and all surplus water is collected and filtered before it is reused to water the flowering garden outside.
All the rooms have tea/coffee-making facilities, a safety box, a private terrace with chairs and table and a minibar. Wi-Fi is available in all rooms.
Meals are taken in the restaurant, which is almost reminiscent of a communal kitchen at a folk high school – with long tables and a lounge area where you can sit and relax and enjoy a drink before dinner.
Most of the employees at the lodge come from the small town of Andasibe close by, and 80% of all the ingredients used at the hotel are purchased within a radius of 30 km from the complex. Mantadia is mindful of giving back to the local community!
Ten lovely bungalows in the middle of a private reserve just a stone’s throw from Andasibe-Mantadia National Park – this is Manjarano Lodge & Spa.
The lodge is characterised by its super modern, and at the same time both raw and elegant industrial design with high ceilings, a large open fireplace in the middle of the restaurant and steel ceiling structures. Inspiration has clearly been drawn from the graphite mine and the associated industry that you pass on the way to the lodge.
The bungalows are really something! There is a bathroom with a free-standing bathtub, a private balcony overlooking a lake, tea and coffee-making facilities, exquisite cotton linen, a minibar and Wi-Fi (which, in the best Madagascar way, can be a little unstable). The bungalows are on two levels, and have space for both a bed and small relaxation area, and are decorated in muted neutral colours.
The communal areas include a beautiful restaurant and bar and a lovely sun terrace with an infinity pool, from which there is a view of a small lake.
The Relais des Plateaux Hotel & Spa may feel more like a motel than a hotel – but a good one of its kind!
It is located just a few minutes’ drive from the airport in Antananarivo, and it is therefore perfect if you only have one night in the capital on your arrival or departure.
There are 42 rooms, all tastefully furnished. All rooms have either a French balcony or a private terrace or balcony outside, but without garden furniture. The rooms are fitted with air conditioning, TV, mini-fridge and Wi-Fi.
The hotel has a cozy pool area and a very good restaurant. You can also get a massage, which is definitely recommended after a long flight – or after many hours of driving on Madagascar’s roads.
If you want to pamper yourself a little extra, we can recommend an upgrade to Le Louvre. This is especially recommended if you are staying for a little longer in the capital, as the hotel is located in the city centre.
The hotel is situated in a historic building from 1930, and if you look closely, you may see that the hotel was designed by Gustave Eiffel’s designers.
If we start from the bottom, you will find a beautiful spa area in the hotel’s basement with pool, hammam, jacuzzi and treatment room.
On the ground floor, you will find both the restaurant and the bar/bistro, which offers both light dishes and colourful cocktails.
At the mezzanine, there are often ‘workshops’ where local artists work and display their art – a good opportunity to buy a unique souvenir.
The rest of the hotel consists of 78 rooms, all of which are modernly furnished with TV, air conditioning, minibar, safety box, tea and coffee making facilities and Wi-Fi.
Close to the centre of Antsirabe, you will find Hotel Vatolahy. At a first glance, the architecture seems rather particular – but this is the classic style of the area.
Most of the 18 rooms are very colourfully decorated. No two rooms are the same – nor in size, so you are guaranteed a completely unique experience at Vatolahy.
Of course, all rooms have an ensuite bathroom with shower, and most rooms have a TV.
The hotel has a spa area with a relatively large pool, and you can also get a massage. The restaurant serves both Malagasy and European cuisine, and the bar (which most of all resembles an Irish pub) is definitely also worth a visit.
It may not be the best hotel in town, but it is clean, the staff are friendly, and it definitely has a lot of personality!
The charming small hotel, Couleur Cafe, is something of an institution in Antsirabe.
The 18 rooms are centred around a very charming garden with benches and garden chairs. Here and there, a rabbit jumps around among the colourful flowers.
The rooms are located in small bungalows overlooking the garden, and all rooms have a private veranda with garden chairs.
There is plenty of luggage space in the rooms, which are large and tastefully furnished with Malagasy art on the walls. All rooms have their own fireplace, which you can have lit up in the cooler months.
Meals are served in the hotel’s restaurant or – weather permitting – outside in the fine garden, and there are often homemade jams etc. for breakfast.
The reception has a small selection of fine souvenirs.
Couleur Cafe is definitely worth an upgrade!
Satrana is our favourite lodge by far at Isalo National Park.
‘Lodge’ is probably not quite the right term, because this is a tented camp with 40 luxury tents in the best East African style with the most beautiful wooden floors, plenty of space, bathroom with both indoor and outdoor showers and a private veranda with sunloungers so you can comfortably enjoy the view. The camp is located on an elevated area of land, and there is plenty of space between the tents, so there is a wonderful sense of space everywhere with beautiful views of the surrounding scenery.
The term ‘lodge’ applies with regard to the communal areas, where you will find a lounge, bar and restaurant as well as a lovely pool area with sunbeds and more views.
The camp is primarily powered by solar cells, which means that there is light in the tents 24/7 – providing, however, that the power in the tent is not used to charge your mobile phone/camera etc.. Electronic devices can be charged in the lounge area, where you will also find Wi-Fi.
Satrana is a wonderful camp, where you are close to nature – yet without compromising on comfort!
The modern and stylish Isalo Rock Lodge is one of the most luxurious accommodations at Isalo National Park.
The lodge consists of 60 rooms, located in rows facing the national park. The rooms in the front row have phenomenal views, but you can enjoy the beautiful scenery even from the back row.
The rooms are tastefully furnished and fitted with air conditioning, tea and coffee making facilities, minibar, safety box – and plenty of space. All rooms have a private balcony with furniture, so that you can enjoy the natural surroundings up close. All rooms have a bathroom with both bathtub and shower.
Relax by the cozy pool, enjoy a massage in the spa or go on a short hike in the area – perhaps with a final dip in the place’s own oasis pond.
Meals are served in the excellent restaurant, and the bar provides cool drinks.
The Jardin du Roy – together with its sister hotel Relais de la Reine – is just a few minutes’ drive from Isalo National Park.
The hotel has 40 rooms, and is built from granite so that it blends into its surroundings as much as possible. The rooms are built around the large central lawn, which has sandstone rocks at one end. Here, there is light and fresh air in abundance, and a sense of being close to nature.
The rooms are large, have an en suite bathroom and fan, and all boast their own terrace or balcony with garden views.
The bougainvilleas add a splash of colour to everything – a colour that also matches the pillows and curtains while contrasting nicely with the rustic stone walls and the beautiful floor!
The communal areas include a friendly bar/lounge, a restaurant with both indoor and al fresco dining, and close by a reasonably sized pool.
Like its sister hotel Jardin du Roy, the Relais de la Reine is built from granite, which blends in well with the surrounding landscape in Isalo.
The name Relais de la Reine also stems from a beautiful rock formation close to the hotel, which closely resembles a queen wearing a crown.
The 30-room hotel Relais de la Reine is slightly smaller than the Jardin du Roy, but the style is otherwise more or less the same with sandstone rocks, a beautiful green lawn and colourful bougainvilleas.
There is a pool, tennis court, masseur and a lounge area with TV. None of the bedrooms at either the Relais de la Reine or the Jardin du Roy have TVs – because what do you need a TV for when the most beautiful nature is just outside the door?
Centrest Hotel is located within walking distance of the small village.
The hotel’s 18 rooms are relatively simply furnished with rustic furniture and plenty of luggage space. Of course, they all have an ensuite bathroom (albeit of older date), fan and mosquito net above the beds.
The hotel is located on a hilltop, and there are fine views of the national park from the lounge and restaurant. The rooms are located behind the main building itself, with access along paths through the lush garden.
There is Wi-Fi in the main building, and you will also find a small pool in the garden. The public thermal pool is also just a short walk away.
Hotel Thermal is a wonderful small hotel close to Ranomafana National Park.
There are 22 rooms of different shapes. However, all the room are spacious. They are furnished with solid wooden furniture with coloured cushions, and there is often also wood on the walls, which are spruced up with colourful curtains, so that what might otherwise seem dark is instead charming. The rooms all have air conditioning, safety box, minibar, TV and Wi-Fi (to the extent that it works).
The big draw is the incredibly beautiful and lush garden that surrounds the hotel. Here, exquisite orchids bloom in competition with fruit trees of all varieties. Keep an eye out for chameleons, which are also very fond of the garden.
At the bottom of the garden, the hotel has its own outdoor thermal baths, which are simply wonderful to slip into after a hike in the national park. You can also have a massage if your legs are sore.
Enjoy a drink before dinner. Hotel Thermal itself grows many of the vegetables used in the kitchen and has a policy that everything else must be bought locally – and that you eat according to the season.
Overall, the hotel has a sustainable profile with a goal of saving energy, avoiding food waste, supporting the local community, using ‘green’ detergents etc.
It is not luxury accommodation, but it is a wonderful small hotel in fantastic surroundings!
Right next to the Antsokay Botanical Garden – just over a 15-minute drive from Toliara – you will find the charming hotel Auberge de la Table.
Here are nine individual bungalows, all of which are built in stone and with thatched roofs. The bungalows are cosily furnished and decorated in natural colours. There are mosquito nets over the beds, a safety box and a fan. There is no air conditioning, but due to their wood construction and thatched roofs, there is almost always a comfortable temperature in the bungalows.
There is a small terrace in front of each bungalow and free Wi-Fi.
The hotel has a small pool area with sun loungers, and also an inviting bar and restaurant with both indoor and outdoor tables.
It’s difficult to explain Bakuba. It’s almost as if Gaudí met an oriental art connoisseur from Africa – and together they built a lodge in the dunes close to the town of Toliara. It’s quite simply a completely unique and very special place.
From the outside, the lodge looks like something you would expect to find in Barcelona. Gaudí’s soft, organic shapes have clearly inspired the architect.
Inside, you can clearly feel the influence of the African continent. Brown colours, wood and stone dominate, but in a luxurious and tasteful way. Everything is beautifully decorated, and it almost feels as if you’re visiting a private art collector.
There are only six rooms, so you have to book well in advance if you want to stay here. The rooms are all individually decorated, each with their own charm – but in the same style. Expect to be surprised by the rooms – Bakuba is not a classic lodge!
From the pool, you can glimpse the sea and Madagascar’s own table mountain, which is as flat as a pancake. Above the lobby is a lounge area which invites you to relax on the sofa, read a good book and enjoy the beautiful view.
The beach is only a few minutes away on foot, but there are mangroves in the area, so the sea here is not suitable for swimming.
You should be aware that the lodge runs on its own solar energy, so the sockets are primarily for charging a mobile – not for using a hairdryer.
Le Paradisier is an ecolodge in the literal sense of the word. It is 100% powered by solar energy, so you will not find a lot of unnecessary electrical appliances in the 20 cabins. The cabins, which are built of stone and have thatched roofs and, of course, the most beautiful rosewood floor, are characterised by their spartan furnishings. The beds are comfortable and fitted with mosquito nets, and all the cabins obviously have an en suite bathroom and a small terrace at the front. There is no air conditioning (but a small fan), minibar or Nespresso machine – on the other hand the sea is right outside your door. There is one socket in the bathroom where you can charge your phone, otherwise there is a charging station at reception.
It’s not luxury – and yet …
If you get up early in the morning and walk through the sand down to the beach while the sun is slowly rising and the sky is a stunning blue-purple-pink, the water calm and the local fishermen are only just starting to stir, then it actually feels like luxury!
Later in the day, you can lie down by the infinity pool, and in the season (about June to September) spot whales directly from the pool. That actually feels like luxury too!
The huts are scattered over a large area, which is connected by narrow paths and flanked by tropical plants. Here, you may certainly be lucky enough to see chameleons on their way to breakfast – and in the evening perhaps even a mouse lemur or two.
There is a restaurant and bar with nice views of the sea, and Wi-Fi in the communal areas.
Catriona is passionate about helping other people fulfill their travel dreams, as she knows how much travel has only improved her life for the better!